Monday, February 29, 2016

A word from Guy

I asked Guy to give me a few thoughts on the expedition for the blog:


About fifteen years ago, Paul invited me to join a party attempting a few of the gentler Munros. For a man whose experiences of Scotland were the familiar urban tourist traps of Glasgow and Edinburgh, I anticipated something akin to the Lake District or the Yorkshire Moors.  Standing atop my first Munro, with the beginner’s luck of a rare cloudless day,  I marvelled at the seemingly endless wilderness and wondered whether, halfway up the ridge, I had climbed through the back of some Highland wardrobe and into another country. England had nothing on this. No distant rumble of the M6, no gift shops selling pointless knick-knacks,  no queues, no people, no nothing. I was hooked.

Fast forward ten years: Paul and I had kept our annual date with the Highlands with a dwindling and changing bunch of companions. I’d trudged, slithered, scrambled and sweated my way up and down thirty or so Munros with midge bites and blisters to prove it. Whilst not exactly smug, I was pretty pleased with myself. I was no Kenton Cool but had at least ascended to some comfortable mental base camp. Then Paul, whose concept of a challenge extends beyond a fun run or a dry January, upped the ante.


‘I’m 50 in 2016. I want to climb the Matterhorn and I want you to come with me.’ Before I could think of the hundred sensible reasons to say no, I said yes.

And so began the process of courses at climbing walls, the purchasing of ropes, helmets and ice axes, winter training, lessons in navigation and more ambitious forays into Skye, Ben Nevis and Glen Coe. Paul took to it all like a duck to water, increasing his fitness, changing his body shape dramatically and working through technical challenges with an Aberdonian determination befitting a man from the Granite City. 

Like Ringo or Jamie Murray, I play my part. For a man with arthritic knees, knot dyslexia and a thigh circumference about fifty per cent that of Paul, the sight of him receding into the distance as we tackle a steep incline or bone-jarring descent has become a familiar one.  I have experienced anxiety, fear, pain and fatigue in varying degrees and sometimes simultaneously.

So why do I do it? Because, when suspended on the TD Gap on Skye or tracing my boot along the Inaccessible Pinnacle in search of a foothold, there is nothing in life that matters more.  My inbox, an impending meeting,  the irritation of an unexpected bill.  It’s the only time that none of these distractions is in my head.  The most extreme moments are the ones of greatest clarity.

One day I won’t be able to any of this. Ten years? I’ll be 62. Who knows when the niggles, aches and pains become something more debilitating and where the descent from life’s physical pinnacle reaches the lowlands of old age.  What I do know is that, whenever it happens, no achievements currently surpass traversing the Black Cuillin ridge or climbing Twisting Gully in winter.  A successful attempt on the Matterhorn would form the front cover of my personal scrapbook.

Being in such wilderness can often be a time of introspection, soul-searching and personal challenges.  All of this ignores the single, most important reason why I do it – the companionship. Last August,  I joined Paul on his family holiday in Assynt. One evening, Paul, his daughter Lily and I tramped to a bothy within sight of Suilven, a ridge beautiful even in the context of its stunning surroundings.   Paul had surpassed his high standard of preparation by carrying firewood in his rucksack, so we could light a fire in the small grate. With Lily snug in her sleeping bag, Paul and I poured a generous dram into plastic cups and sat back. For a wordless hour, we watched the sun cast its last shadows over the mountain, as the sky changed from mid to deep, star-pricked blue. The only sound was the occasional spit from an ember.  Conversation, or anything else, was unnecessary. This was life as it should be lived. 

Tuesday, February 9, 2016

Dodgy weather and dodgy knees

As my national bard said more eloquently than I, "The best-laid schemes o' mice an' men
Gang aft agley"!

So it was for my Scottish winter mountain training expedition on the weekend of 5th Feb.

First of all the sleeper was late into Glasgow, the weather forecast had been grim all week in the run up so maximising time on the hill in reasonable weather was a priority. So after throwing down some breakfast we went to collect the hire car only to find it wasn't going to be available for another hour. So what should have been an 8am departure from Glasgow turned into a 10am one. That will be the last time I use Sixt I have to say.

As we drove north it became clear that our initial plan of climbing Beinn Narnain and Beinn Ime was simply not possible, especially in the dire weather. So after a reassessment we decided to head straight for Glencoe and do a reconnaissance on our ultimate target of Stob Coire nan Lochan. The idea was to walk up into the corrie bowl and have a look at conditions ahead of Saturday's assault.

The snow level was a lot higher than last year and it was clear that conditions in the crags higher up were, as one climber we met put it, "thin".

However, the forecast for Saturday was for colder weather and further snowfall so all was not lost yet, so we returned to the car grateful at least to have got out albeit we were pretty soggy and windswept by the time we checked in at The Clachaig.

There followed a very pleasant evening spent with a Paris based couple who were touring the area, one originally from the Black Isle and the other an American where we enjoyed a few of the numerous beers on offer.

So off we set on Saturday in reasonable weather with it forecast to deteriorate. The first thing that struck me arriving at the car park was how busy it was - we got the last space and it wasn't even 9am! All tooled up, with ropes and other gear we set off passing a few people on the way and seeing climbers well into the distance. After an hour or so it was clear to me that Guy was struggling, despite making better time than the day before. As I caught up with a group who were putting on their crampons and harnesses I took the opportunity of the last bit of shelter from the biting wind to wait for Guy. When he arrived my suspicions were well founded and we agreed to tackle the final slope before the corrie bowl to assess what we might do. On arrival it was the mountain equivalent of Piccadilly Circus!



Guy declared that he couldn't do any climbing at that point, a mixture of pain and loss of confidence faced with the crags and the clear deterioration in the weather conditions, and said he would make his way down on his own. I couldn't let him do that after what happened to Jim last summer so the decision was taken to abort for the day.

The forecast for Sunday was atrocious with gusts of wind at the summit in excess of 80mph and heavy snow. When we awoke the wind was definitely stronger, and sure enough snow was coming down in the Glen. We agreed to head south and revisit our Friday objectives. As we headed across Rannoch Moor the snow started getting very heavy and several times I nearly lost the car despite doing very modest speeds. (grainy pic taken by passenger Guy!)



In all honesty I was grateful to get to Bridge of Orchy without leaving the road. By then the snow had turned to rain but it was hosing down, so we stopped at a nice cafe in Inveruglas and assess the situation. The wind was getting stronger and the Met Office hourly forecast indicated no improvement until 4pm, so we abandoned all thoughts of mountain activity and instead spent the afternoon "date-style" at the Glasgow Modern Art Museum, followed by the rather brilliant, if harrowing Spotlight followed by a curry in the rather marvellous Koh-I-Noor restaurant, before heading back to catch the sleeper back south.

My abiding principle in all my expeditions is that a key element of success is getting home safely and it hit us profoundly as we discovered in the dining car, enjoying a Laphroig, that there had been an avalanche that day, but thankfully no one was seriously hurt!

All in all somewhat disappointing as far as training and practice goes, however, I still feel confident that I am on schedule to reach the summit of The Matterhorn in August.

Fundraising has now started in earnest and details of how to sponsor me can be found on www.MainsersMatterhorn.com

Thanks for your support

Paul